When it comes to dining at seafood restaurants in Boston, the array of choices can be quite overwhelming.
From exquisite Frutti di mare dishes discovered in the North End to waterside establishments in the Seaport District, it appears that at every corner there lies a respectable venue offering delectable seafood.
This is why it is imperative to make a mark. The seafood-inspired sibling of Grill 23, Harvest, and Bistro du Midi realized it was time to do just that and recently launched a reimagined menu that elevates traditional seafood dishes to unprecedented heights.
The Banks Fish House in Back Bay underwent a subtle metamorphosis earlier this spring to enhance the dining experience to the esteemed levels found at its more upscale sister restaurants. The outcome? A more streamlined wine selection, enhanced cocktails, and more sophisticated dishes.
The establishment is the brainchild of restaurateur Chris Himmel of Himmel Hospitality Group and executive chef and business partner Robert Sisca, who unveiled the concept two years ago. (It took over the former space of the laid-back tavern, Post 390, when it closed in 2020).
The Banks’ two-level location boasts a sophisticated nautical theme, striking lofty ceilings, and cozy fireplaces to cozy up to on chilly afternoons. The ground level exudes a more relaxed ambiance with a raw bar and lively cocktail lounge popular among post-work patrons. Upstairs, the atmosphere is more serene and slightly more formal, yet still inviting.
During a recent instance at the reinvigorated restaurant for brunch, our amiable server Jared recommended starting off with one of their innovative cocktails.
While there is a commendable variety of local and artisanal beers on tap, why not indulge in a fruity sangria concocted with Spanish rosado, strawberry, rhubarb bitters, and blood orange? One of their most imaginative drinks, Oyster Martini No. 3, is crafted with Ostreida oyster vodka, dry vermouth, kombu and orange bitters. We suggest pairing it with a raw bar plateaux teeming with East or West Coast oysters, lobster tails, and jumbo shrimp cocktail.
Keeping in line with the sophisticated dining concept, premium enhancements feature a caviar selection. The Banks offers a “light, clean, floral” choice as well as a “nutty, delicate, rich” Black River Imperial Osetra along with all the accompaniments.
A must-experience appetizer is the halibut ceviche presented in a delightful avocado leche de tigre garnished with diced red onions and mango complemented by a serving of crispy plantains.
The appetizer selection also includes Ora King salmon crudo, chilled crab cake Causa, and tuna tartare taken to a novel level with the introduction of kalamata olive aioli and fresno peppers.
Given that this is a fish-centered establishment, it is only fitting to find recognizable land-based classics with a maritime-inspired twist. Instead of the conventional chicken and waffles, their rendition features fried whole belly clams and waffles drizzled with maple chowder gravy.
Speaking of chowder, The Chowda flatbread is as imaginative and delicious as it gets. Despite its moniker, the flatbread is not adorned with ladles of creamy chowder. Picture a drier, more savory rendition containing a medley of crème fraiche, smoked bacon, clams, potatoes, and oyster crackers.
The delectable swordfish BLT showcased grilled swordfish, crispy Berkshire pork belly, fresh arugula and tomato alongside a flavorful basil-lime mayo served with a side of golden French fries.
Other distinctive discoveries include squid ink spaghetti and a Scituate lobster Benedict topped with saffron Hollandaise.
Brunch is available on weekends starting at 11 am. They also open for lunch on weekdays with dinner served nightly.
The Banks Fish House is situated at 406 Stuart Street in Boston.
Image Source: A glimpse into the Back Bay’s new seafood establishment from a prominent Boston restaurant group. / Photography by Brian Samuels