Augustina Hobbs, daughter of esteemed vintner Paul Hobbs, recently hosted an extraordinary wine dinner in the exclusive wine chamber at The Royce, a Michelin plate-awarded steakhouse situated within the opulent Langham Huntington in Pasadena.
As guests enjoyed the delectable amuse bouche crafted by Chef de Cuisine Jorge Degaldo, servers began pouring glasses of 2021 Hillick & Hobbs Estate Dry Riesling. This wine, made from grapes grown at their estate in Seneca Lake, NY, is characterized by its delightful texture and a balanced sweetness. It boasts a captivating floral aroma, enhanced by flavors of Asian pear, vibrant citrus, and hints of earthiness.
The engaging Augustina, a graduate of Cornell University, is currently a Sales Consultant for Signature Division SGWS. She fondly recalled her childhood memories of being raised in the world of winemaking, stating, “I spent my summers in Napa Valley, Sonoma, New York, and Argentina. My most cherished memories are of walking through the vineyards with my father.”
The Riesling is named Hillick & Hobbs as a heartfelt homage to Augustina’s grandparents. “Their surnames feature on the label. They met while studying at Cornell University, close to Seneca Lake,” she explained.
Paul Hobbs nurtured the grapevines at their family estate specifically to produce this wine.
As one indulges in this Riesling, it’s clear it competes well with any European counterpart, thanks to Hobbs’ innovative viticulture methods in the Finger Lakes. The wine is aged and fermented entirely in stainless steel, resulting in a light profile, vibrant acidity, and aromatic richness.
This Riesling paired flawlessly with the initial course, which featured thinly sliced seared tuna served on crisp Granny Smith apple slices, garnished with bee pollen crumble and a Key Lime and peach conserve for an extra touch of sweetness.
“My father grew up on a farm and initially pursued medicine at Notre Dame. After earning his Chemistry degree, it was my grandfather who encouraged him to leave medical school and pursue viticulture at UC Davis,” she shared.
During his studies, her father fell in love with Riesling wines, especially those from Germany, which he holds in high regard. He earned a Master’s degree in Viticulture and Enology.
His upbringing instilled in him the discipline needed for farming, as he tended to the land, harvested crops, and sold produce at farmers markets each morning before school. “For my father, winemaking comes second; it all begins with the vineyard,” Augustina noted.
Bottles of 2021 Paul Hobbs Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley were poured as the second course was served. “The grapes for this wine were harvested during the cool evening hours,” Augustina remarked, adding, “This smooth, slightly oaky Chardonnay doesn’t have overpowering oak characteristics.”
When sampled, this predominantly estate wine harmonized beautifully with Chef Jorge’s green and white asparagus spheres, adorned with hints of Meyer lemon, marinated Asian pears, a mache salad, and crunchy dehydrated Mandarin orange slices.
“My dad’s thesis studied oak extracts and compared French Oak to California,” Augustina recounted. “When Robert Mondavi, a legendary vintner, reviewed his work, he became intrigued, leading to my father’s journey in winemaking alongside Mondavi in Napa Valley.”
For his early career, Mondavi handpicked Hobbs for the original Opus One team. Following his time at Opus One, Paul took up a role at Simi Winery before consulting for several prestigious estates, including Napa Valley’s Peter Michael and Lewis Cellars, and then took the opportunity to consult for Argentina’s Bodegas Catena.
Augustina illustrated how a wine writer from the Seattle Times visited Argentina to experience her father’s Malbec, later resulting in a feature titled ‘Don’t Cry For Me Argentina,’ which introduced the varietal to the American public.
Paul has continued to hone his winemaking skills, focusing on enhancing the health and longevity of the vineyards he manages. He discovered that nurturing grapevines properly results in the finest wines. This commitment has driven Paul to create single-vineyard wines that showcase the unique terroir of California and other intriguing vineyard locations around the world. “We operate eight wineries across four continents,” Augustina noted.
In 1991, he reached out to viticultural pioneers Larry Hyde and Richard Dinner in Napa and Sonoma to obtain five tons of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. In time, these grapes formed the foundation of the initial releases from Paul Hobbs Winery.
“His namesake wines were crafted using indigenous yeast and without filtration, which was quite standard in the 1980s and early 1990s,” said Augustina. “To this day, my father actively collaborates with those vineyards to produce some of California’s finest wines.”
Augustina elaborated on her father’s perfectionistic nature, explaining, “My father’s relentless attention to detail and excellence extends to the meticulous care he affords both his vines and winemaking facilities. In the vineyard, he favors minimal intervention, which allows the cellars to yield world-class, site-specific wines.”
As the third course of finely sliced New York carpaccio was served, Chef Jorge explained the dish at each table. “The cherry puree has been fermenting for over a year,” he noted. Observing this process, I appreciated the uniquely dark and mellow cherry flavor it imparted.
This course was paired with a glass of 2022 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir crafted from grapes harvested from the West Sonoma Coast. It perfectly complemented the raw beef slices alongside the pickled hon-shimeji mushrooms and curly purple mustard frills.
The visually striking ruby red Pinot Noir offered an alluring aroma, and with each sip, I delighted in the vibrant cherry flavors coupled with notes of red berries. A hint of salinity, paired with fine tannins, culminated in a finish highlighting pure fruit.
Augustina was excited for guests to experience two different Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignons. The first, a 2020 vintage sourced from the emerging Coombsville area of Napa Valley, showcased a deep garnet color, with a rich bouquet of blackberry and notes of savory sage and subtle tobacco leaf.
This wine paired exquisitely with Chef Jorge’s fourth course, featuring a perfectly cooked petit filet with a red center accompanied by cigar-smoked marble potatoes, injecting a delightful tobacco essence with each bite. On top of the tender beef sat a slightly sweet black currant sauce, finished with crispy leeks. While the first Cabernet Sauvignon complemented the dish wonderfully, I found myself particularly drawn to the second Cabernet Sauvignon.
This exquisite 2011 vintage from the Beckstoffer Las Piedras area of Napa is a refined, velvety red wine, showcasing layers of black cherry and red berry flavors. Infused with notes of fresh mint, spices, and rose petals, the wine also carries a touch of minerality, finishing with a silky essence of dark chocolate and black tea.
Paul Hobbs continues to expand his vineyard holdings, currently cultivating Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes across premium terroirs in California’s Russian River Valley, West Sonoma Coast, and Napa Valley, including both estate-owned sites and those tended by long-term partner growers.
Discover his estate wines, which rank among his most treasured, vibrant, balanced, and pure offerings, promising a delightful dining experience.
Image Source: Roycela.com