Discovering a new local bistro is a gratifying adventure, especially when it offers some of the premier Portuguese dishes in London and is overseen by Simon Mullins, co-founder of the Salt Yard restaurant group, along with his Portuguese-born partner Isabel Almeida da Silva. Volta do Mar occupies a distinguished spot on the upscale Draycott Avenue: directly opposite KX (one of London’s most exclusive – and expensive – gyms) and merely a few steps from the neighborhood favorite, Daphne’s. The restaurant relocated here last year from its previous spot in Theatreland, making Covent Garden’s departure notably advantageous for Chelsea.
Referencing the navigational skills of the Portuguese, Volta do Mar (which means ‘around the sea’) draws inspiration from a 15th-century technique perfected by Portuguese navigators during the Age of Discovery, harnessing wind patterns at sea. It’s an apt moniker: this is a venue that transcends the conventional staples of bacalhau and caldo verde, instead incorporating Portugal’s historic trade routes with a menu enhanced by pan-African, Brazilian, and South Indian influences. The restaurant’s offerings truly represent the diverse amalgamation evident in Portuguese culinary art. As Volta do Mar articulates on its mission statement on their website, they are ‘celebrating the variety of Portuguese gastronomy and its links with South America, Africa & Asia.’ The menu highlights creations ranging from chickpeas and aubergine Goan curry to Iberico pork bafassa.
Mullins is an avid wine enthusiast, and he passionately shares with me and my friend J the expansive wine repertoire, which has garnered numerous accolades, including the World of Fine Wine Magazine Annual Awards ‘World’s Best Wine Lists’, ‘Best Micro List Europe’ (Under 100 wines), and is currently a contender for ‘Best Microlist Global’, with the awards ceremony planned for September 16th.
The dining experience began for me with mackerel and shimeji mushrooms, a delectably rich umami dish. I then proceeded to sweet potato with black beans, which was exceptional. For dessert, I relished grilled peach, beautifully complemented by a generous serving of rich, creamy vanilla sauce.
Meanwhile, J described her salad of red, yellow, and candy beetroot with goat cheese and hazelnuts, alongside Brazilian fish and tiger prawn stew, as ‘truly delightful indeed’.
The culinary offerings here evoke flavors reminiscent of the finest Pousada, a Porto wine establishment, or a fresh seafood kiosk in the Algarve. I am thoroughly impressed and will certainly come back for more, particularly as it is a distinctive, inviting venue with an outstanding wine selection and reasonable rates, especially for Chelsea, and best of all, it’s just around the corner.
Image Source: VoltaDoMar.co.uk
