It might be unexpected to find a culinary master from a Michelin star caliber venue on a secluded island in the expansive Atlantic. Nevertheless, this is the case at À TERRA at the Octant Hotel in Ponta Delgada, situated on the island of São Miguel.
Ponta Delgada on São Miguel is a place steeped in history, showcasing an impressive 18th-century city gateway, numerous convents, churches, and grand homes. As the capital of the Azores, it acts as a gateway to a variety of natural wonders including volcanic calderas, jewel-toned crater lakes, bubbling fumaroles, and the joy of observing whales and dolphins. Gently warming thermal springs encourage relaxation, while the coastal route reveals landscapes of striking volcanic formations. The regional delicacy, cozido das Furnas, a flavorful mix of meats and vegetables, is prepared in the earth’s heat over the course of five hours at the geothermal site of Furnas.
Sete Cidades, São Miguel, Azores
What led this culinary creator to an archipelago nearly a thousand miles away from the shores of mainland Portugal? Chef Leite’s journey traversed the globe before arriving at this spot.
Hailing from the small coastal town of Aveiro, near Porto, Portugal, Chef Leite fondly remembers his upbringing surrounded by expansive sandy beaches and saltwater lagoons. Aveiro, often called the Venice of Portugal, captivated him with its network of canals in the city center.
He reflects on the culinary influences from his family, stating, “Growing up in a traditional Portuguese household, I was enveloped in a profound love for our local cuisine and the unique flavors of the north. Family gatherings, especially during religious festivities, celebrated the ocean’s bounty, thanks to my grandfather’s endeavors in the Ria de Aveiro. Roasted lamb was a fixture, honoring my father’s roots in the Douro Valley. Our meals were always accompanied by three cherished staples — the adored Bacalhau, or Portuguese salted cod; a tender roasted suckling pig (my personal favorite!); and the delectable Ovos moles, a rich egg-yolk treat that tempts one into continued indulgence.”
While his decision to pursue a culinary career came somewhat later, Chef Leite’s passion for cuisine has been a constant companion throughout his life. “Enrolling in a school focused on Hospitality and Culinary arts felt like a natural choice. My professional journey began at The Yeatman, a prestigious gastronomic and hotel establishment in Portugal that held 1 Michelin star at that time and now boasts 2.”
With youthful enthusiasm, he sought broader horizons. “I set off on a six-day expedition in my old car, aiming to reach the Netherlands where I expanded my culinary skills for a year and a half.”
“Afterward, an incredible opportunity arose as I collaborated with Chef Joachim Koerper, one of the most esteemed culinary figures in Portugal and Spain.” Cidade Maravilhosa, the nickname for Rio de Janeiro, transformed his path: “In just one year, I met my future partner, and our shared culinary venture was awarded the prestigious Michelin star. The allure of Cidade Maravilhosa goes beyond honors; it is where my life partner and I first connected.”
He elaborates, “Brazil holds a deep affection for the Portuguese, from the melodic lilt of the accent, the vibrancy, the rhythm of music, and especially, the beauty of Rio de Janeiro — a place of extraordinary splendor justifying its name. I am endlessly grateful for the valuable experiences and my current residence in yet another stunning location.”
Continuing, he shares, “Our collective efforts in Rio centered around one primary aim: to receive Michelin recognition. This ambition was achieved within an impressive timeframe, and simultaneously, we gained recognition as one of Brazil’s top dining locations.”
What then motivated such a celebrated chef, amidst a thriving career and enticing environment, to move to such a remote area? Chef Leite shared that an invitation following his return to Portugal and time spent in Porto led to his transition to the beauty of the Azores. “These serene islands, tucked away in the mid-Atlantic, offer a haven not only for visitors but also as a home. I accepted the role of Executive Chef at Octant Ponta Delgada Hotel in 2021, embarking on an extraordinary journey thus far.”
The region’s mild maritime climate and abundance of pristine ingredients are a major draw. He expresses enthusiasm, “For mainland Portuguese like myself, the Azores reveal endless wonders. The absence of harsh winters or scorching summers creates a temperate climate throughout the year. The landscape is dominated by verdant foliage and azure waters. Seafood and other oceanic products of supreme quality are plentiful, and substantial amounts of Portugal’s beef and dairy come from here. Enhanced by exotic fruits and unique vegetables such as pineapple, guava, cherry guava, yam, and more. This opportunity was one I could not refuse, and thus, I made the leap!”
At Ponta Delgada, our philosophy centers on freedom, camaraderie, and sharing joy through exquisite cuisine, warmth, and storytelling. Acknowledged in Portugal’s gastronomic scene and affirmed by media outlets and travel guides, our establishment’s culinary talent is indisputable.
When inquiring about the foundation of his gastronomic philosophy and unique approach, Chef Leite remarks, “Often underappreciated sea salt remains my valued ally in the kitchen — a splendid natural gift, skillfully combined with fresh ingredients and family recipes, unveils the essence of exceptional cuisine. Though a comprehensive list could follow, it suffices to say that salt and passion define my creations. Treating every guest as one would treat cherished family — spouse, mother, or father — serves as the guiding principle of our table.”
Chef Leite kindly agrees to share one of his culinary secrets with our audience.
Sopa de Queijo – A soup symbolizing Octant Ponta Delgada, designed for aficionados of Azorean cheese. In Portugal and the Azores, soup is a traditional starter to all main meals. Some areas regard a hearty soup as a complete meal, served with pork, beef, and beans or merely simple vegetable broths.
Cheese Soup from Ilha, serves 4:
- 100g diced white onion
- 100g diced leeks (white only)
- 50ml virgin olive oil
- 400g potatoes
- 200g São Miguel cheese, cut into chunks
- 50g São Miguel cheese, finely grated
- 80g heavy cream
To make cheese crisps: Spread the grated cheese on parchment paper and heat in the microwave on high for 60 to 90 seconds, until golden and crisp. Set these aside to add a crunch to your soup later!
Sauté the onion and leek in olive oil until they achieve a golden color.
Add the cubed potatoes and allow them to cook.
Cover all vegetables with water or a light chicken broth and cook on medium heat for 30-40 minutes until tender.
Use either an immersion blender or a standard blender to create a smooth puree. Season with a pinch of salt and mix in the cream.
Serve steaming hot in a deep bowl, previously garnished with a poached egg and lightly sautéed zucchini or mushrooms.
Image Source: TTstudio / Shutterstock
